DIY Guides
Manuals
Articles|
Ok guys, well I decided it was time to switch away from the Porterfield R4S cause well... I just wanted to. And the rotors were pretty well eaten up and it was time for them to get resurfaced.  As you can see, there's lots of grooves and glazing on the rotors, one of the commonly reported problems with the Porterfields is they EAT rotors.  That's one of the other tech showing off my new pads. EBC Yellowstuff Racing Pads http://www.buybrakes.com/store/EBC-DP4725R Anyways... I decided it was time for a good write up on how to install front brake pads. I tried to get some pics but was kind of on time restraints. I've started this write up on the presumption that the car is already on jack stands or on a lift. Leave your steering unlocked so that you'll be able to turn the wheels in order to more easily access the bolts you need to remove/install. Also take off the cap to your master brake cylinder and remove the debris guard (but keep it in a safe, clean place). Step 1: Remove Wheel - Now I think this is pretty self explanatory, if it isn't you might want to pay someone to install your brakes. Step 2: Remove Caliper from Caliper Mount - For the 5th Generation Celica's you'll use a 14mm wrench or socket in order to remove the caliper to caliper mount bolts, there are two of them, longer one on the top and shorter one on the bottom.  Step 3: Hang up Caliper - The reason for this is that you don't want to hang your caliper from your brake lines as it is pretty hard on them to hold the weight of your caliper, especially if you've got stainless lines as I do because if you tweak stainless lines you'll actually kink and break the Teflon inner lining which will cause your lines to start to leak.  Step 4: Remove Brake Pad from Caliper Mount - Again, think this is pretty self explanatory but I added a picture for ya.  Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount from Hub - You�ll use a 17mm wrench or socket in order to remove the caliper mount from the hub. One on top one on bottom.  Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor - The rotor should just slip right off the front wheels as they aren't held on by anything aside from the lug nuts/wheel. - Ok and at this point you can go 2 ways. You can turn/resurface the rotor, like I did. OR you can buy a new rotor cost is fairly close if you get cheapo rotors and chances are the rotors from your local auto parts store will work just fine for most people and cost only a little more than what most machine shops charge to turn/resurface rotors. Step 7: Reinstall Brake Rotor - Reinstall your freshly turned/resurfaced or new rotor.  Ooooooo shiny! - NOTE: You can tighten a lug nut back onto a stud in order to hold the rotor in place in order to keep it from moving around while you're trying to reinstall everything. Step 8: Reinstall Brake Caliper Mount - Make sure you've got all the brake pad clips on the caliper mount when you reinstall, there should be 4 total (2 on each side). Make sure the spring part of the clips open towards the rotor, not away and are on the bottom of the caliper mount, not the top. Use the picture from Step 4 for reference. - Reinstall using the 2 17mm bolts. Step 9: Prepping Brake Pads - Ok, now you'll want to get your old brake pads and remove the shims attached to the back of them. It might take a little effort with a screwdriver or scraper if you haven't changed the pads in a while. - Now you'll want to get your new pads and spray/apply some brake quiet on there. This is both a vibration reducing agent and an adhesive for your brake shim (which is in itself a noise/vibration reducing shim).  - And now place the pads back into the caliper mounts. No picture to reference but you should be able to figure it out. Step 10: Prepping Caliper Pins - So your pads are ready and now it's time to get your calipers ready to crunch em! So you'll want to take out the slide pins from your calipers where the bolts to hold them to the caliper mount went in.  - Clean them off REALLLL good and check for any pox marks or gouges. If they're marked up pretty bad I'd suggest buying some new slide pins. - Now lube them up with some high temp disk brake grease. I use a moly base lube we have here at work, and I have no idea what it's called. - And reinstall them into the boots on the calipers. Step 11: Prepping Caliper Piston - Ok now either with large C clamp or really big channel locks you'll want to carefully (but with some force) push against the piston so that I backs into the caliper. This is why you removed the cap and guard to the master cylinder as it'd probably go shooting off now if you didn't. If it's still taking too much force open the bleeder valve w/ an 8mm box wrench (make sure you close it immediately after pushing down the piston). You may want to only do one side at a time as sometimes doing one side will push down on the other piston. Step 12: Reinstall Caliper - You�ll just slide the now depressed caliper over the caliper mount and pads and bolt it back onto the caliper mounts using the 2 14mm bolts. It can be easier to get in just the top bolt and swing the rest of the caliper down.  Hurray shiny! Step 13: Reinstall Wheel - If you listened to my advice about putting on the lug nut, take it off first. Pretty self explanatory. Step 14: Bleed Brakes - Ok, now comes the most tedious part of this. If you've got a vacuum bleeder, awesome, saves mucho time. If not? get a friend. - Instead of doing, essentially another write up on how to bleed brakes, you'll have to figure that out. - We use 8mms for our bleeder valves by the way. Submitted by xxx@******.com Revision 0 Article submitted on 30 Mar 2010 Last modified on 22 Dec 2010 Viewed 4747 times |
|
|
||||