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A DIY FOR REPLACING YOUR DRIVER SIDE CV AXLE on a GT (I am not a mechanic so used this guide at your own risk!) The reasonwhy I changed my CV axle is because the boot was ripped and it made aloud clicking noise on small turns. This was done on a 1995 GTConvertible and it took me about 3 hours to do. Good luck, and I hopethis helps! TOOLS & PARTS LIST - jack + jack tools - wheel block - jack stand - 1/2 ratchet + extension - 3/8 ratchet + extension - torque wrench - 14mm, 17mm, 24mm, 30mm socket - gloves - gear oil (SAE 75W-90; 2.6 litres:2.7 US qts) - cv axle (i'll get the toyota part number later because i used a aftermarket axle) - transmission seal (90311-35019) - Toyota manual - hammer (rubber preferred) - smally pry bar - pliers - two prong puller removal tool - 5mm allen key - 2 medium sizer cotter pins - towel - *a friend to help you SETUP & PREPARATION  1. setup a wheel blocker (actually wheel blocker or a nice 2x4 is fine) 2. loosen wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket  3. raise car with jack, and place a jack stand under the car for safety reasons *if you have a convertible you should unlatch your top to avoid any extra pressure that happens from jacking up your car* 4. remove lug nuts and than the wheel REMOVAL   5. remove transmission drain plug with a 24mm socket and drain the fluid out  6. use your lug nuts to protect your wheel studs  7. remove cotter pin with side cutters or pliers and than lock cap 8. loosen the bearing lock nut *I had my friend step on the brakes as i was removing the nut. I wasusing a 30mm socket on a 1/2 ratchet, i position the ratchet upstraight and just whacked it with a rubber mallet   9. remove cotter pin than remove tie rod end nut from steering knuckle *usinga two prong pulley removal tool I held onto the sides past the balljoints and spun the tool upwards to push out the tie rod end (picture6-1)  10. remove stabilizer bar link from lower suspension arm * I was able to remove the the lower one because mine is shot. I ended up removing the top one instead *I did not know this but, to remove the nut you need to first loosen thenut and than put a 5mm Allen key inside the stud to help prevent itfrom turning and than you remove the nut (thanks to Coomer's DIY)  12.removing the lower ball joints nuts and bolt from the steering knuckle,remove the lock bearing nut and move the assembly to the right to havebetter access to the CV axle  13. remove CV axle *The manual shows this is the area where your suppose to pry the CV axleto remove it. Unfortunately I wasn't able to remove it the axle withtheir method. I ended up prying behind the dust cover it will damagethe dust cover and seal but those were going to be replaced so itdidn't matter to me. *next remove the seal INSTALLATION  13. I dont have abs on my car so i had to remove the abs ring prior toinstallation (ABS RING CAN BE LEFT ON FOR INSTALLATION FOR NON ABSCELICAs) *remember to replace the dust cover once you remove the absring (I used the same dust ring on the original CV because it was muchstronger)  15.install new transmission seal (make sure it sits flush or just a littlebit deeper, and make sure you dont twist the bead inside or else itwill leak!)  16. coat gear oil to the inboard joint tulip and differential case sliding surface 17. set the snap ring opening side facing downwards when installing the CV axle 18. install lower ball joints nuts and bolt (94ft-lbs) 19. install stabilizer bar link nut (14ft-lbs) * use can jack up your lower control arm up a bit to help make this easier to install 20. tie rod end nut (36ft-lbs), than install new cotter pin 21. install bearing lock nut (159ft-lbs), than lock and new cotter pin * same procedure as the removal, I used my friend to hold down the brakes 22. fill up your transmission fluid through the fill plug (75w-90; 2.6 litres: 2.7 US qts) (36ft-lbs) 23.take your car for a 5 min drive with lots of slow turns, check if itstill clicking or any weird noises. It everything sounds good park it,and check for transmission seal leak. If that's not leaking YOUR AREGOOD TO GO! CONGRATULATIONS!YOU JUST DID A CV AXLE REPLACEMENT!!! and you also did these along theway: transmission fluid drain and fill and a transmission seal lol FUNNY SIDE NOTES: 1.I was using Royal Purple in my transmission, I tried to remove the axlehoping that not a lot of the fluid would come out. In the end a lotcame out and I ended up changing the fluid. The fluid cost 50 dollarsfor 3 litres. I had the Purple Royal for less than a year. 2. Thistime I used regular 75w-90. My opinion on Royal Purple is that it is abig waste of money because I had bought it originally to help with my3rd gear grind. It stopped for a bit and eventually came back. Itsfunny because this regular gear oil has almost stopped the grind (i can shift into 3rd A LOT easier now) 3. This DIY took just as long to write and post as to changing my CV axle Submitted by xxx@******.com Revision 0 Article submitted on 12 Apr 2010 Last modified on 12 Apr 2010 Viewed 9913 times |
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