Here are some pics of my injector number one being removed and replaced by the Dremel method. There are more details on my web site.There are also links on my web page to two more detailed articles onthe Dremel method. That should be more than enough information foranyone wanting to complete this job.
Here is the TT.net link to the FAQ on diagnosing faulty injectors.
Dremel brand rotary tool
Time needed: About two hours, not counting the time for soaking the old injector overnight in PB Blaster for ease of removal
Difficulty: 2 1/2 out of five. Requires a little finesse.
Use a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the four cap screws that hold the throttle cover.
Forinjector number one, loosen and set aside the throttle and cruisecontrol cables (yellow X), and the throttle bracket. Red arrows arepointing to the two Allen screws that hold in injector number one. Gearwrench is on the throttle bracket. Remove the oil filler cap and stuffa rag in it.
The tool after which this technique is named.
Grinding the plenum with the Dremel so that the cap screw by the red arrow will come out.
Use a Shop-Vac and a helper to suck the metal filings as you grind.
Get straight over the top of the injector and look down between grindings.
Remove the screw on the non-Dremel'd side first for a little more "fudge" room with the remaining screw.
Capscrews are out, half-moon cover is off. I soaked the injector for 24hours in PB Blaster at this point before even trying to remove it.
Thisis how I grabbed the injector for both removal AND insertion. However,upon insertion I padded the pliers with a rag. Twist the injector backand forth first before trying to pull it out, to break the seal. Minecame out easy but these injectors had already been replaced once.Expect original injectors to be tougher.
There are two O-rings and a half-moon little rubber gasket that go with each injector.
Icoat the O-rings with Vaseline and squirt a little WD-40 into the lowerplenum socket where the injector seats. The yellow arrows show wherethe O-rings go.
Thereis also a rubber insulator that goes into the lower plenum socket (notshown) where the injector seats that can be replaced, but I reused myold one.
Audioquest likes to use a piece of 5/8" PVC pipe witha notch cut out for the connector, to tap the injector back into thefuel rail with a rubber mallet. I twisted and pushed my injector backinto place with a padded pair of pliers.
Sometimes it is possibleto press the injector back into place by tightening the half-moon capover it. However, the screws are fairly easy to cross-thread and strip,so don't force it.
Having done the job in both freezing and warm weather, the injectors slide in and out easier in a warm garage. Good luck.
Submitted by xxx@******.com
Article submitted on 1 May 2010
Last modified on 1 May 2010
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