Even though this is a pretty easy exercise, I guess I must still put a disclaimer:

1.Prepare
2.Read
3.Follow

If you can't handle an oil change...get to know your mechanic well.

Word of Advice: You may want to try to loosen the filter FIRST before you drain the oil.  Just break the seal (don't unscrew it all the way or you'll have a mess) before draining the oil out in case you have to take it to the quick-lube place to have them take the filter off for you incase you cannot take it off.

**Great advice !
A. If at this point, you are still adamant about doing the oil and oil filter change your self..... You may wish to skip to the Oil Filter section (2) if you have a very new vehicle--(first oil filter change since the factory). This will allow you to see if you can get the oil filter off on your own. If you can not for any reason, you still have the option of then going to the dealer or an outside shop because you still have oil for which to run the engine on.**




LAST WARNING (about the filter)....AND HERE WE GO! GOODLUCK!!


1. Buy supplies.

1. Oil: The cap says 5W30, there is a TSB that states you can use 5W20. I went with 5W20 to stay under warranty. You can go lower or higher. When to go any lower or higher, it will depend on your climate and driving pattern. Remember though, stay within Toyota recommendations for warranty purposes.

2. Oil Filter: Size Mobil M1-103 OR Toyota 90915-YZZF2 DENSO (made in Thailand) OR if you can find it: Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4 (Made in Japan) -which is a much better quality than the Denso. Or find the brand you like in the appropriate size. As for other brands, you can try non premium ones because they cost as much as 5-10 dollars less, just stick with the brand names and you should be fine. AND ....NO FRAM!!!! I REPEAT, NO FRAM.

3. Filter Cap socket attachment

4. Socket Wrench

5. Size 14mm Socket

6. Oil Catch Can

Once this first oil change has been done, for all the rest, you should only require new oil and a new oil filter (granted you kept everything).


2. Getting to know where everything is:


Underside pic from RShatchback of Yarisworld.
_____________________________________________ ______ _____ ____

Now for the actual changing.....
NOTE: It is advisable that you warm up the engine to operating temps to mix up any deposits into the oil so it drains with the oil. Also important to note that if you feel the oil pan is too hot...wait a bit or use gloves. A quick drive to the store and back should be enough time for things to warm up properly.

1. Drain Oil using 14 mm Socket to remove oil plug. Use the wrench first to loosen the plug, then place Oil catch can under and proceed to twist the the plug loose with your fingers. (REMEMBER THE OIL MIGHT STILL BE TOO HOT, USE CAUTION)



A) Open the Oil Cap at the top of the engine to let air in if you wish for the oil to drain a bit faster.
B) Wait until the oil comes out to a few trickles.
C) Wipe down the oil pan. Clean up the drain plug.
D) Put the cleaned plug back into the pan. Be careful not to force it or you will strip the bolt and/or the hole. Tighten to firm with the socket wrench.

2. Oil filter. (REMEMBER OIL MAY STILL BE TOO HOT TO HANDLE THE FILTER, USE CAUTION)
A) Attach the oil filter cap to the socket wrench or use an appropriate oil filter wrench. I like the cap because of the ability to use the tool in small spaces.
B) Drag the oil catch can under the oil filter
C) Loosen the filter from the top of the engine (more room to work with). Remember because the filter is upside down (and you are looking down to it), you twist right to loosen.


Note: Twists reversed because you are viewing it from the top and the filter itself is mounted upside down.
Quote:

Not bad - but wrong on one point: Its Left-Lucy, Righty-Tighty on the filter. Actually there is no left or right. Its anti-clockwise to loosen (unless its a flammable gas fitting).

D)Use hand to twist the filter off. The Oil Filter will still have residual oil in it, turn it over and place it onto the catch can to continue draining. Wipe the opening of the Oil Filter nozzle.
E)Prepare the new oil filter by holding it upside down. Fill in from half to full of new oil. Spread some of the new oil on and around the oil filter gasket.

F) Take out the old filter and catch can from underneath the car. Put in the new, prepared one. Twist to the left to hand tightness. **yes, hand tight** If you want torque specs. scroll down to Discussion C.



3. Filling:
A) Open Oil Cap (if you haven't done it yet). Place Funnel in hole.


B) Fill to about 3 quarts and stop. If you're using the big 5qt Jug from wally world, put in a little under 3/4 of the jug.
C) Replace the oil cap. Wipe your hands and go start the engine and let her sit.
D) While the engine is running: Take a rag and start wiping things down. What you're doing is looking for leaks from the oil plug and from the oil filter. Of course don't stick your fingers where they don't belong while the engine is on.
E) After about 2-3 minutes, shut down the engine and pull the dip stick. Wipe it off and put it back in. Now pull it and look at where the oil is. because you only put in about 3 qts. The oil most likely will only be at the very tip of the dip stick. Put the Dipstick back in and fill up about half a qt. Run the engine again.
F) After another 2-3 minutes, stop the engine and check the dipstick. Oil should be around the bottom to middle (between the two dots).

G)....continue this until it gets to the middle...if the oil is in the middle...YOU'RE DONE!
H) Clean up, save oil and oil filter receipts for your records. Go have a beer or something.

4. Afterwards/Discussion
A) Check air filter to see if it needs replacing. Check wiper fluid levels. Check tranny dipstick (if you have one).
B) After the first day, then the week, then two weeks, check the ground under the car after you've pulled out to see if there are leaks. This just means tightening things up.
C) The Oil plug under the car should have been just firm with the wrench, the oil filter could have been just hand tight. If you are anal retentive, you may use the wrench to twist to firm. But the hand tightness is to help you for the next change, when that time comes, even if you did it to hand tightness, you will still find yourself needing a wrench.
As for Torque specs:
 

Oil plug (with new gasket)... 38 N*m (382 kgf*cm, 28 ft.*lbf) Oil filter... 13 N*m (133 kgf*cm, 9.5 ft.*lbf) If the available workspace is insufficient to use a torque wrench, tighten the oil filter a 3/4 turn by hand or use a common wrench.

D) About oils. You can stay Dino (non-synthetic) if you wish, this won't hurt the engine in the least bit as long as you do it within the service intervals. Those of you who want to do synthetic may see a slight increase in performance and mileage (more mileage than performance). As far as brands...stick with the name brands and you will be fine. If you want some homework go to these two places for education:

1. General knowledge on Oils: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
2. Great discussions on Oils: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums

E) Service Intervals... If you don't want to get into the debate, stick with the 5000miles Toyota recommends...plus it doesn't void the warranty. Now if you are past the warranty (usually 36,000miles or 3 years), You could up the interval to near 10k miles if you want on certain synthetics.

Keep all receipts for future records! Write in a log the mileage, type of oil (ie 5w-20), and Filter type/brand.
F) From here on, you should be able to get away with buying the oil and the filter because you will already have everything else. Matter of fact, take the opportunity to take a trip to the store for that period you're supposed to warm up the car, this way, you won't be wasting gas staying in one place waiting for the engine to warm up.
G) You can find 5 Qt Jugs of oil or you can find oil in the usual 1 Qt bottles.
F. PLEASE DISPOSE OF YOUR USED OIL CORRECTLY. MOST AUTO PARTS STORES ARE HAPPY TO TAKE YOUR USED OIL. EVEN YOUR LOCAL MECHANIC WILL AS WELL, TAKE THE OIL FROM YOU.