2. Undo the crankshaft bolt:
If the previous service have been done by franchise or tire shop, the crank bolt can be too tight: if electrical impact gun cannot break it loose, the local tire shop may undo the bolt for you, ad then snug it back so you will be able to remove it yourself. Do not attempt to go fast or far after this procedure; go straight back to the belt change.

• Turn the front wheel to the right; set the parking brake;
• Disconnect negative battery cable
• Break loose the lug nuts on the front right wheel,
• Raise the car and place it on the jack stand
• Remove the wheel and the splash shield to expose the pulley
• Lock the pulley with holding device
• Break the bolt loose using breaker bar or impact gun.

3. Time for power steering reservoir and right front motor mount:

• Unbolt power steering fluid reservoir bracket and move it away without disconnecting hoses; you may wrap plastic bag around it. I also used solid wire to temporary strap the reservoir to the top of the strut tower to keep it out of the way
• Place the jack under the engine using care to prevent the oil pan damage
• Remove nuts and bolts on the top of motor mount and mounting bracket
• Use deep 17 mm socket to remove the most difficult nut facing the firewall; use caution to retrieve it as there almost no space to there [in most difficult case you may need to make some sort of “tool” to catch this nut].

4. Down the fender well:
· Slide the special wrench between the frame rail and the power steering pump pulley and place its head on the pivot bolt, figure below:

· With the aid of the cheater, break this bolt loose then loosen it about ¾ turn
· Using 14 mm offset box wrench, loosen the belt tension bolt, move the power steering pump toward the engine and slip the belt of the pump pulley, let it hang down on the crank pulley;
· After verifying that jack under the engine is secure, remove two nuts in the green rectangle; this will separate engine block from mounting bracket. Use 12 inch extension and 14 mm deep socket for this purpose, figure below:

5. Motor mount, timing stetting, and alternator’s time:

• Remove the motor mount and bracket as one piece; it is not possible by design to remove just bracket, then motor mount. Once off the car they can be separated if necessary; figure below

• Remove the spark plugs
• Pull the 3 inch rubber plug from upper timing belt cover to expose the timing hole on the cam sprocket; place 22 mm socket on the alternator pulley and rotate it clockwise using ratchet
• With the aid of mirror align the timing hole in the sprocket with the mark on the cam bearing housing as outlined in the manual.
• Now make sure that the timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with “0” on the timing scale
• Disconnect and remove alternator and its bracket
• Remove drive belts from the crank pulley
• Completely remove crank pulley bolt
• Using harmonic balancer puller or bar type puller take the pulley off [use M6 class10.8 or stronger screws to attach puller to the pulley]
• Using 10 mm socket and ¼ inch drive ratchet, remove the timing cover screws and timing covers; the upper cover may come out easier if the power steering return pipe is pushed toward the strut tower. Moving engine up or down with the jack may also help to maneuver the upper cover out
• Remove the timing belt guide
  

6. The fun with the belt:
The “pretension” of the belt is done by a tension roller spring during the manual rotation of the engine right after the belt installation; once the roller’s bolt is tightened, spring has no effect on the belt tension.
In order to assure correct timing phase there should be certain number of belt teeth between two timed pulleys [cam and crank]

• Using quick drying marking pen, place the marks on the cam sprocket and #3 timing cover; this will make the cam position easy to see, figure below

• Match mark the belt to the cam sprocket as illustrated, figure below

• Match mark the belt relative to the crank sprocket, figure below

• Mark the side of the belt which is facing the radiator
• Loosen the belt tension roller bolt
• Use appropriate tool to push the roller down to free up the belt, then temporary tighten the roller bolt
• Slide the belt out
• Place random mark on the new belt [two teeth next to each other]
• Line up old and new belts side by side on the flat level surface and align the marks
• Transfer remaining mark from old to the new belt
• This will assure same number of teeth between the marks on old and new belt which is critical to set the timing phase.
• Inspect rollers, seals, bearings and do necessary repairs
• Install the new belt, make sure that each of the marked teeth on the sprockets is placed between 2 marked teeth on the belt, figure below

• Loosen the bolt to allow the tension roller to contact the belt under spring force
• Install the belt guide, lower timing cover and crankshaft pulley, snag the pulley bolt in
• Rotate engine 2 full turns clockwise and recheck the timing marks
• Rotate the engine clockwise 1 and 7/8 turns and tighten the tension roller bolt to about 35 foot-pounds
• Install the upper timing cover and the rubber plug

7. Proceed to assembly:

• Place the motor mount and bracket on its position then insert the long bolt in red square into its hole and begin to thread it in. This will bring the mounting bracket and the engine block into the proper alignment in order to install and tighten 2 engine to mounting bracket nuts, figure below

• Once nuts are tightened remove the long bolt, place mounting bracket to alternator bracket brace and install all bolts and nuts to secure bracket to the mount and mount to the body. Reinstall and tighten the long “alignment“ bolt
• Install spark plugs, alternator and drive belts
• Remove jack from under the engine
• Position holding device on the crank pulley
• Place torque wrench on the crank pulley bolt, torque to 80 foot pounds
• Install splash guard and wheel
• Lower the car, torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds
• Install the power steering reservoir
• Reconnect the battery

You should be ready to go.

Submitted by xxx@******.com

Revision 0
Article submitted on 30 Mar 2010
Last modified on 5 Apr 2010
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