The reason I recommend Jspec is that the black paint on the OEM panelsis not thick enough and the EL panel shines through, the Jspec has a thickenough coat you don't need to mess with it. 

Parts/Tools: 

1 rear center panel (jspec preferred)
1 3" by 11" EL panel from www.beingseen.com(tell him I sent you please!)
2 feet of 1/2 foam weather-stripping
Electrical tape
The finest sandpaper possible, I used some from my body shop used forwet sanding
Black primer spray paint (only if using the OEM panel and not Jspec)
   CAUTION: Some paints may cause bubbling and lifting.
   Plasticote has been used successfully without causingany problems.
Standard oven with temperature gauge 

Procedure:

1. Take off the snap retainer, foam gaskets, and light housings by removingthe two screws (3.). 

2. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (clearing taillights calls for 450,but the lenses in the reverse lights are a bit thinner and start to meltat 450). 

3. Take a sharp knife and cut around the four screws in the rear topof the panel (4.-6.). They might be covered by plastic andthey have no heads on them. Use small pliers and unscrew them. Do thiswhile the oven is heating up. If they are not removed, there is a riskof cracking the center panel. 

4. Place the center panel between the open oven door and the top ofthe oven (7.) for 8 minutes. Then remove the panel and slowly startpulling the two pieces apart. Be very careful, it doesn't take much forceto crack the panel, it isn't near as sturdy as the tail light panels. 

5. Once the panel is separated turn off the oven and let the piecescool down. If using the OEM panel, tape off the reverse lights and painta good coat of black primer over the 300ZX logo before sanding. I usedgray on an old panel here for pictures (8.), there is a coat ofblack under it. For those with Jspecs, skip the primer step. Also noteregular enamel paint can react with the factory paint on the panel andwill bubble up. If this happens remove all paint and repaint the entirepanel, doesn't sound fun does it? I found this out on an already brokenpanel so it wasn't that big of a deal after I tested with standard enamelpaint. 

6. Tape off around the 300ZX logo as close as possible with electricaltape (9.). I recommend at least 1-2 inches away from the letters,because after an hour or so there will be a slip with the sandpaper. 

7. Now the hard part, I cut my sandpaper into 1/2 inch strips and startedsanding away the paint on the 300ZX logo. I tried a dremel and it meltedthe plastic even on low setting. I also tried a small 1/4 piece of woodwith the sandpaper on it. The wood doesn't work as well since the panelis curved. So I ended up just using my finger and the strips of sandpaper.I sanded the entire logo with just one sheet, so there's no need to buya whole package. If when holding the panel up to the light there is anylight through anything other than the logo, use black touch up paint orelectrical tape to cover these areas. 

8. Once all the paint is sanded off and it looks satisfactory (picka background color for a computer's desktop and hold the panel up to themonitor to see if all the paint is off). Start on the EL panel. I pickedthe Ice Blue and the Blood Red for my testing here. Be warned the BloodRed looks very very very orange when not lit, the Ice Blue is white whennot powered and sort of an Indiglo color when powered. For this reasonI went with Ice Blue instead of the Blood Red. The EL panels consist oftwo individual panels, one positive, one negative. I was told the lengthcan be modified as long as both panels are the same size overall. Theycan also go as much as 25% difference without being able to see any fading.This is good because the keyhole will need to be cut around (10.).Just make sure to tape the panel after cutting, otherwise there is a riskof being shocked. There is power running through these things. 

9. Once the panel is cut and fitted, use strips of electrical tape tohold the EL panel to the logo. Since the panel is curved I also put twostrips of foam weather-stripping on the back of the EL panel to make sureit stayed flat against the logo when put back together. My EL panel isstuck to the back side of the plastic panel and not the logo. This happenedbecause I painted the chrome inside the back piece of my Jspecs to giveit a darker look and the foam weather-stripping stuck to the paint. Forgood fitment/placement I would tape to the logo first. 

10. Drill a hole in the back plastic piece to run the power wires (11.).At this point start heating the oven up to 400 degrees again. Put the twopieces of the center panel back together as best as possible without heatingthem up, then put them back on the oven door. This time around I heatedthe pieces for 3 minutes and then used my handy clamps to squeeze the twoends together. I then let it cook for another 3 minutes before removingfrom the oven and squeezing the rest back together (12.). Dependingon how well it came apart it might take several trips of cooking/coolingbefore the panel is all the way together. Don't get in a hurry here asa poorly sealed panel will let water in. No telling how that EL panel willreact to moisture. 

11. Once the panel is back together and cooled off reinstall on theZ. I wired my inverter to my license plate light. The main reason I didthis instead of parking lights is that there are sensors for bulbs to tellif there is a bulb out. By using the license plate light there is no chanceof triggering this sensor and lighting the annoying light on the dash.Put the interior panels back on.

Originally published 12-04-01