| Most of the older Z32s have problems with theirclocks. The display gets too dim, or goes out altogether. With the costof a new OEM clock above one hundred dollars, most opt to put in aturbo timer or some other small electronics in the prime consolereal-estate, install an audio head unit with a clock display on it andcall it a day. Fixing the OEM clock is surprisingly simple if you havesome soldering skills to replace some resistors buried inside it. NOTE:this process will not work for everyone due to the fact the old 181 ohmresistors may have failed to the point where they allowed too muchcurrent to go through the board and damaged some other component. It isdefinitely worth it to try, can't be made much worse. Tools/Parts: flat head screwdriver
soldering iron (not a soldering gun)
solder (rosin core)
2 180 ohm 1/2 watt resistors
de soldering wick (not shown) to help clean up excess solder
multi meter, not required but can be extremely helpful Procedure: 1. Remove the clock from the dash by removing the front console.There are two screws behind the trim plate above the top DIN slot (1.) and two more behind covers left and right of the top vents (2.).The clock is held in by 2 Philips head screws. Unscrew it and unplugit. Take the front and back covers of the clock apart by inserting theflathead into the slots located on the bottom of the display area (3.).Twist the screwdriver and it should loosen up the plastic tab. Do thesame for the other side and the front plate will come apart. 2. With the 2 covers removed, the plug will be on the backcover of the two halves. Forcefully press forward to remove it out ofthe slot that's holding it in (4.). NOTE: It can be rather hard to remove so go easy on it as well as remember the position it was on for re-assembly later. 3. Separate the top and bottom boards. There are 6 pins to de-solder (red dots in 5.).De-solder them and carefully place a screwdriver between the blackplastic and the bottom part of the board to CAREFULLY pry them apart.It will not come apart easily. If it is too difficult, try to remove asmuch solder as possible holding the 6 pins in place (6.). 4. Take the board with the glass display and flip it around.Notice the 2 flat, black, resistors marked with a "181" on them (2 reddots in 7.). These resistors need to be removed. Actually, theonly one needing to be removed and replaced is the one connected to thecathode heaters on the display. However, I would replace them bothbecause if one fails then there is a possibility they both might bedefective. Try to remove as much solder as possible holding theresistors in place. Remove the 2 "181" ohm resistors by removing orbreaking them off the board with the flat head screwdriver. NOTE: Becareful not to slip which will cause the screwdriver to damage anotherpart or scratch the traces (metal paths) on the board. 5. Once the old resistors are removed, measure the length ofthe new resistor wires to match the circular prints which areapproximately 2-3 mm below the old resistor solders. I would notre-solder the new resistor in the same place as the old, because whenthey were removed, they may have damaged the traces under them (8.).Solder the new resistors onto the board carefully. Make sure theresistor wires aren't touching any exposed parts cause it might groundand/or short out components . Do the same for the other resistor (9.). 6. Put the top and bottom halves back together and re-solder the6 pins. Place the plug through the back cover and snap it back intoplace. Place the clock snug into the back cover and then seal/snaptogether the front cover to combine the to halves. Go back to the Z,plug it in, turn the key to the 'On' position. If done properly, theclock should illuminate like new. Originally published 12-10-2001
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