Timing:
Anytime the wheels are off.

Special Tools:
Torque wrench

Installation:

1. Break loose all of the lug nuts while the car is on the ground. The stock lugs are 21 mm. (1.) 

2. This is the safety step.  When  jacking up the front, puta brick behind the opposite rear wheel as a precaution to keep the carfrom moving (always have the parking brake on and the car in gear). (2.)Also put a jack stand under the car for safety.  After the wheel isin the air, finish removing the lugs and wheel. 

3. Inspect the brakes for any thing out of the ordinary.  Thisis also a great opportunity to replace the pads if they need it. I recommend Metal Master pads.  They really help your stopping powerand are very fade resistant. (3.) 

4. There are two 21 mm or 19 mm bolts on the back side of the calipers that attachthe brake calipers to the suspension.  These need to be removed sowe can get the caliper off.  The rotors are 'floating', meaning thereis nothing besides the brake caliper and the pressure between the wheeland wheel bearings keeping them in place. Use the torque wrench to breakthe bolts loose. (4.) 

5. When the bolts are removed, work the caliper off of the rotor. Be careful not to twist and break the brake fluid line.  It is alsoa good idea to support the caliper after it is off the rotor to take thepressure off of the brake line. (5.)  I am actually using steelbraided brake lines.  They help a lot with improving the pedal feeland applying the braking pressure to the rotors instead of expanding rubberbrake lines. 

6. Once the caliper is off, just pull off the old rotor and put thenew one on.  Now reverse the process.  Getting the brake caliperback over the new rotor and getting the caliper bolts started is the hardestpart of the process. 

7. Using the torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to 100 ftlbs. (6.) 

8. Put the wheel back on, tighten the lugs by hand, and lower the carback down.  Be sure and torque the lugs to 75 - 85 lb/ft. (7.) 

That is all it takes.  Just repeat the process for the other side. Put all the tools away and you are done!  If you are putting on cross-drilledrotors, they usually have a bed-in process and break in period to follow. Just refer to the documentation that came with them. 

Russell "Silky Smooth" Siebert

Removing the rear rotors requires a little additional effort. The emergencybrake doesn't use the caliper like other cars do, it has it's own set ofconventional brake shoes inside the rotor 'hat'. To get the rotor off theaxle, make sure the emergency brake is released. Tap the rotor with a plasticmallet to get it to release from the hub. If that doesn't work, there aretwo threaded holes in the hat area to screw in pulley puller studs. Eitherattach a puller there, or get two bolts that fit the holes, twist the rotorwhere the bolts can be threaded all the way through without hitting thebrake components inside & make contact with the backing plate. Justtighten them up until the rotor comes loose.

DamonZ

Updated 11-15-2000