This replacement of shifter bushings was done on my '91 NA 2+2. 

Timing: 
When the shifter has a lot of play side to side or front to back whenin gear. 

Special Tools: 
Telescoping magnet to retrieve fallen parts 
String 

Other Parts: 
Two TT/NA 90+ shifter bushings: P.N. 34139P-30P00 

Installation: 

1. There are two cosmetic clips sitting on the top of each side of theupper vents. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, remove these clips toexpose the bolts beneath, then remove the bolts (1.) 

2. Underneath the two vents and above the stereo space is a long flatcosmetic cover that is held in place by two clips behind it. Again, usea small flat-blade screwdriver to pinch the clips and remove the cover.Be VERY careful not to break these clips. Mine were already broken whenI bought the car so I didn't have to worry so much. :) Unscrew the twobolts beneath this cover. (2.) 

3. Remove the vent/stereo fascia. At this point, either disconnect allcables running to the fixed components (alarm LED, clock, and CD playerin my case) so the entire fascia can be moved out of the way, or (whatI do) simply move the console up so that the back of the stereo rests inthe vent area, which basically gets it out of the way. (3.) 

4. Remove the shifter knob. This sounds easy, but if the knob has neverbeen removed it may be a challenge. The factory puts locktite on the threadsof the shifter which practically welds it on. I suggest wrapping a towelaround the shift knob several times to protect the leather, then use along pipe wrench or large vise-grips to remove it. More leverage is better:) 

5. Remove the two screws that are exposed which fasten the top of theplastic console trim to the dash. (3.) Pull out the ashtray andremove the bolt underneath it. This frees up the trim piece. Remove theconnections to the lighter, ashtray light, and mirror/shocks/mirror defrostcluster, and place the trim piece out of the way. (4.) 

(NOTE: if the leather shifter boot needs to be replaced, nowis the time. Flip the trim piece over, remove the four bolts and metalplate holding the leather boot in place, and put the new one in.) 

6. Remove the two screws holding the front (sides) of the utility tray(rear console) to the front console. (4.) These are pictured justbelow the button of the emergency brake (driver side of trim) and justin front of the base of the emergency brake (passenger side of trim). Openthe utility tray, and use a flat-blade screwdriver to pull up the front(largest) felt covering to expose three bolts. Remove these bolts. (5.) 

7. Unsnap the emergency brake boot, remove the utility tray, and placeout of the way. 
(NOTE: If the emergency brake is loose, i.e. pulls all the wayup easily, now is the time to tighten it up. There is a nut at the baseof the brake that can easily be tightened down while it is exposed.) 

8. Remove both the upper and lower rubber dust boots from the shifterknob. (6. & 7.) Note the rubber tabs projecting from the fourcorners of the lower boot. When putting the boots back on, the upper boothas four holes that should slip over these tabs to join the two together. IMPORTANT NOTE: Pay attention to which side (front or back) thenotch in the shifter is facing. In these pics the notch is to the rear,but over the years, many people have noted that this is backwards for them.Whichever way the notch is facing right now on your vehicle, is how it should bereassembled. Otherwise you'll slam your knuckles into the center console whenshifting aftwards!

9. Remove the 4 bolts from the metal plate at the base of the shifterusing a 12mm wrench or socket. Also, remove the nut and washer exposedbehind the shifter, which is also 12mm. (8.) Be VERY carefulto not drop this nut and washer into the exposed hole because it is extremelydifficult to retrieve it. Remove the metal plate and place it out of theway. 

10. Next, remove the two nuts holding the shifter knob in it's base.(9.) One 12mm nut is exposed on top (in front of the shifter) andis painless to remove. However, the second (behind the shifter) is reversedso the nut and washer are underneath the base. (not visible in the picture)This piece is pretty tricky and requires reasonably dextrous fingers. Again,be VERY careful not to drop the nut or the washer! 

11. Now the toughest part of the job: There is a bolt holding the shifterknob to the linkage and it is underneath the base. Image (10.) showsthis bolt. (The picture is sideways. Up is to the right.) My method forremoving this is to place a 12mm wrench on the nut and let the wrench reston the center console to hold it in place, then use a 12mm socket on thehead of the bolt to remove it. Also, based on a suggestion from Twinturbo.NET,I tied a string around the wrench so it doesn't get lost if it falls downin the hole. (11.) 

BIG NOTE: This is my second time to do these bushings. The boltmay be reversed, i.e. head on the left, nut on the right, so the job maybe more difficult. When I was putting it back together the first time Iflipped the bolt around which made it much easier to remove this time. 

12. Remove the shifter by slipping it up through the base. At this point,it should be obvious where the bushings are, although they may be completelygone. In any case, image (12.) shows my worn bushings. 

13. Remove the old bushings and put the new ones in place. Reverse thesesteps to put everything back together. Remember to orient the shifter so thatthe notch is facing the same direction that it was when you disassembled.The pictures on this page show it facing rearward, but that may or may notbe correct.(9.) 

14. When re-attaching the shifter to the linkage with the long bolt,there may be some difficulty getting the base of the shifter, with thenew bushings, seated between the "arms" of the linkage. To make this parteasier, I inserted a pair of pliers between those "arms" and stretchedthem out a bit. (13.) Then just tighten the long bolt to 12-14ft-lbs.to clamp it back down. 

15. Assemble in reverse order. The nuts & bolts that hold the shifterto the support are torqued to 9-12ft-lbs.