From: Joshua Kramer

Here's how I did it:

1. Grab all the tools you'll need: two 13 mm wrenches for the battery, a stubby phillips-head screwdriver, a long phillips-head screwdriver, and a T9 torx screwdriver for the odo. You'll also need a T15 to disassemble the cluster.
2. Disconnect the battery. Somehow (be VERY careful with this), short circuit the negative battery CABLE to the positive battery cable so you discharge the airbag capacitor. OBVIOUSLY, don't short the battery unless you want 1000 amps and shards of white-hot metal flying all over the place. Set the cables aside - it's Really Not Fun if the airbag blows up.
3. Get in the car, tools in hand. :) Unscrew the plastic 'plate' below the steering column - there will be three screws at the bottom, and one right by the glovebox. Pull rearwards on this plate, and it will come off.
4. Unscrew the screws holding the plastic "trim panel" (the thing the left vent is housed in) at the bottom of the trim panel.
5. Lift the top of the dash upwards. Stick something in there to keep it out of your way - a regular Craftsman 13 mm wrench works fine. You might want to put something between the wrench and the dash cover so you don't put dents in it.
6. Using stubby screwdriver, unscrew the top screw in the trim panel, and carefully pull the panel to the left. You don't have to remove it, just let it hang.
7. Unscrew the instrument cluster screws with your long screwdriver. The right hand bottom screw is tricky - you'll have to use your stubby driver and kajole your hands around a bit. Remove the cluster.
8. Dis-assemble the cluster: first, the cardboard backing; then, unscrew all the PC board screws, and the two screws in each connector. Carefully, remove the PC board. Do it evenly - lift a little on one side, then in the middle, then on the other side, then lift the first side some more. After you've got that off, remove the front bezel: take out the two screws in the top, two on the side, and two at the bottom. (One on the bottom is hidden behind the steering column foam.) The bezel should come off, as will the gauges. Turn the gauges over.
9. Remove the odometer. Note, you'll have to pull off the trip odo lever.
10. Dis-assemble your new cluster, install your odo, and re-assemble it, taking care when re-installing the PC board. There should be bulbs in all the sockets except the Hazard flasher.
11. Re-install the instrument cluster in your car. Screw in the mounting screws. Re-install the left trim panel, make sure it's snug.
12. To re-install the other plastic panel, position it so that the fasteners align with the holes. Push it firmly into position. Screw the screws back in.
13. Take the support brace out of the top dash cover. Make sure all the fasteners align properly, and press firmly to snap it into place.
14. Re-connect the battery. As with any dash repair, push your seat all the way back, then turn on the ignition and brace yourself... :) (That's just in case something got screwed up and the airbag explodes.) Test-drive the car and admire your new tach. :)

If there's anything I missed, please post!