Why do I want to change my driveshaft?

If the CV joint fails or the CV boot splits then the driveshaft will have to be removed in order to conduct a repair.

Where can I get a new outer CV joint

www.tcbparts.co.uk and Blueprint both supply outer CV joints. Have a look at this article for a "How to..." - TBA

Are there any differences between the methods for the drivers side and passenger side?

Yes! The drivers side is MUCH easier to do, the passenger side is a pain. Note the oil comes out of the gearbox and onto the floor if you want to do the passenger side, so you will have to drain the gearbox oil for this side. Also if you plan on replacing the driveshaft oil seals, (recommended), then the passenger side is a bugger to do with the engine in the car.

Just to repeat what I've said, the gearbox oil does not need to be drained for the DRIVERS side.

(For the purposes of this article, and the entire website, the drivers side is the right hand side of the vehicle)

What is the torque figures for the various components?

 

Torque figures all stated in Nm

 

What tools do I need?

• 2 or 3 leg bearing puller - to separate the figure of 8 from the shock absorber
• 22mm socket - to undo the figure of 8 from the end of the shock absorber
• 10, 17 & 19mm sockets and spanners - various jobs
• 30mm deep reach socket - to remove the hub nut
• Pliers and flat screwdriver - to remove the various split pins
• Torque wrench
• Thread locker - optional, (to ensure suspension components remain done up!)
• Breaker bar - to remove stubborn nuts and bolts
• Plastic or rubber mallet - to remove driveshaft from hub

How did you replace the front driveshaft?

The job took ~2 hours... (drivers side)

	Jack the car up, insert axle stands, and chock the wheels to prevent the car from moving. Remove the wheel from the side that the driveshaft requires replacement
	Identification of a split CV boot is straightforward and blatantly evident! Note the unwelcome grease on the driveshaft "boot" - this is a likely sign the protective boot has split
	Undo the top 2 x M6 bolts, (10mm head), from the under tray cover to gain access to the driveshaft area, (drivers side shown, but passenger side the same)
	The cover can be folded away under the car or removed completely if you prefer, (you'll have to remove the rest of the under tray bolts to remove this cover completely)
	Remove the split pin from the end of the driveshaft...
	...and remove the nut retainer/locking cover from over the hub nut. Get an assistant to press hard on the brake pedal whilst you undo the hub nut, (30mm deep reach socket required). This can be done by one person if you are doing the driver's side. Then remove the nut from the hub...
	Next up is splitting the figure of 8 link from the end of the suspension leg
	Undo and remove the split pin, retainer and nut and fit your 2 or 3 leg puller. From experience this really is pot luck whether the joint separates easily or is a real pig to split. If the lower suspension has been worked on in the last 18 months or so then it shouldn't pose too many problems
	With the figure of 8 split, undo and remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut from the camber plate on the bottom of the hub
	Push down on the plate so that this clears the stud protruding from the hub. The hub can now "swing" free of the lower suspension arms
	With the hub free, the driveshaft can be pushed through the hub; use a plastic or rubber mallet, (to avoid damaging the thread on the driveshaft). If the driveshaft wants to be stubborn and requires more persuasion then refit the hub nut, (to protect the driveshaft thread), and find a larger hammer and apply more encouragement
	Keep pushing the driveshaft through the hub, pulling the hub away from the car to allow enough room for the driveshaft to clear the back of the hub Note - ensure no crap enters the rear of the hub as this will reduce the life of the wheel bearing
	The driveshaft clear of the hub, but still connected to the gearbox
	The driveshaft is held within the gearbox by the aid of a snap ring. This is located on the end of the driveshaft, (see picture below), and is inaccessible. The snap ring is forced back into it's recess by pushing the driveshaft out from the gearbox. Unfortunately access to "tap" out the driveshaft from the gearbox is described as poor at best...
	Looking from under the car, locate the driveshaft. Note in this picture the blue object is a Cusco under engine brace, this will not be present on a stock car
	Place a piece of wood approx 30cm long as shown and "tap" out the driveshaft from the gearbox. Tap can end up being a damn good thump. If the tapping is not yielding any results then stop, push the driveshaft back towards the gearbox, rotate the driveshaft and repeat. Note the location of the wood - this prevents damage to any important sealing surfaces/parts
	Removal of the drivers side driveshaft leaves the gearbox almost totally sealed i.e. very little gearbox oil escapes, as per the picture. Removal of the passenger side will result in maybe 3 litres of oil gushing out of the gearbox! (Note the drivers side gearbox oil seal is easy to remove and replace, the passenger side is a nightmare, prepare for the worst if you plan to replace the seal on the passenger side!)
	The drivers side driveshaft. Note the snap ring and the O ring. Before refitting a drivers side driveshaft, apply gearbox oil to the O ring to aid refitting and prevent damage. This O ring is not fitted to the passenger side...
	The hub end of the driveshaft. The raised sections on the CV joint is for the ABS system...Note that ABS and non ABS cars have the same CV joints fitted
	The complete drivers side 205 driveshaft
	Refitting is simply a reversal of removal, just remember to avoid getting debris into the open wheel bearing in the hub, and lubricate the drivers side driveshaft O ring on replacement A thorough inspection of the wheel bearing grease may reveal small "items" that require removal before assembly

Anything else to consider?

Replacement of the gearbox oil seals is recommended. The drivers side is easy and poses no problem, it's fool proof!

The passenger side is a problem and is not to be undertaken lightly. Access to the seal for removal is not a problem, but as suspension and bodywork is in the way for refitting a new seal this poses a significant problem. The seals need to be fitted square within the gearbox, if not then they will leak gearbox oil. Seal fitting on is idiot proof on the drivers side but not on the passenger side. Why oh why the same type of seal wasn't fitted to the passenger side as the drivers side is beyond me! Maybe it's just me, but the passenger side gave me real problems with the engine in the car...

A front wheel alignment should be conducted after replacement of the driveshaft since the suspension has been separated.

 

What are the gearbox oil seal details?

Passenger Side	Toyota Part No	90311-50027	£23.66
	Original	MH5A 50 80 6.5 235x8T
	Replacement	Koyo MT050A5 LH
Drivers Side	Toyota Part No	90311-47003	£31.97
	Original	NOK BE3683F
	Replacement	tba
Transfer / Propshaft	Toyota Part No	90311-38032	£16.50
	Original	NOK AH22401
	Replacement	NOK AH22401

 

Note
Original refers to the original seal fitted by Toyota at the factory. Replacement refers to the replacement seal obtained from Toyota